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Toasted Spelt Ramen Noodles in Fermented Barley & Tahini Broth

Home   Recipes for Pulses, Grains, Seeds, Flakes, Flour, Ferments...   Toasted Spelt Ramen Noodles in Fermented Barley & Tahini Broth
Asian Eden Owen-Jones Ferments seaweed Spelt Spelt flour Supper

April 11, 2024

Inspired by the toasted rye noodles at Ivan Ramen, Ivan Orkin’s celebrated New York restaurant, Eden Owen-Jones uses spelt flour to create toasty chewy noodles without the trip to NYC.

These noodles are a labour of love; the dough takes some time to knead together using a pasta machine but they're well worth the effort. The broth however is quick and easy to create so your efforts are soon rewarded once the noodles are made. Just add a few portions of your favourite seasonal vegetables and protein of choice. The simple version pictured here is topped with spring onions, coriander and chilli oil.

To make these noodles you will need kansui, an alkaline solution that regulates the acidity in dough, giving the ramen noodles their signature chewy texture. But you don’t need to go searching for this specialist ingredient because it's very simple to make from bicarbonate of soda at home, a process outlined below.

Serves 4 to 5

Ingredients

For the Kansui
  • 30g Bicarbonate of Soda (this will make more than you need, but it will mean you have some ready to go for next time)
Noodles
  • 300g High Protein Bread Flour
  • 150g Stoneground Wholemeal Spelt Flour
  • 50g Plain Flour
  • 7g Salt
  • 5g Kansui Powder (made from the bicarb listed above)
Broth
  • 1.6 ltr Vegetable Stock
  • 400 ml Soya or Oat Milk
  • 1 large Strip of Kombu
  • 4 tbsp Tahini
  • 4 tsp Fermented Naked Barley, ground in a pestle and mortar to break up the grains.
  • 4 tsp Toasted Sesame Oil

Method

  1. There are 2 ways to make kansui: each turns bicarbonate of soda, which is sodium bicarbonate, into sodium carbonate, a crucial ingredient in ramen noodles. The first and most common way is to preheat theoven to 120C, spread out the bicarb on a foil-lined baking tray and bake for 1 hour, then leave to cool completely. The quicker way is to place it in a frying pan on a medium high heat and cook for 10 minutes, stirring frequently (for this method wear a mask as the small particles can get into the air) and leave to cool completely.
  2. Dissolve the salt and 5g of kansui powder in 200ml of cold water and leave to one side.
  3. To begin making the dough, place the spelt flour in a high-powered blender or food processor for 30 seconds to grind the flour into a finer powder. Then place the flour in a large frying pan on a medium heat and toast for roughly 5 minutes, stirring constantly until you smell toasty aromas coming from the pan.
  4. This process will decrease the volume of flour. From the toasted spelt flour weigh out 130g (this should roughly be what you have left) and place into a large mixing bowl. Add the other flours to the bowl and mix thoroughly. Add the water and bring the dough together, lightly kneading to incorporate as much flour as possible to make a rough shaggy dough. Wrap the dough tightly in 2 clean tea towels (to avoid using single-use plastics) and leave to hydrate at room temperature for at least 2 hours.
  5. Once rested divide the dough into quarters, taking care to tightly wrap the remaining pieces of dough whilst kneading another. Shape the dough into a rough rectangle and pass it through a pasta machine on its widest setting, then fold in half and pass it through again (if you have a kitchen aid attachment this process will be much faster). At this stage the dough will be incredibly shaggy and prone to ripping, but it's part of the process – just keep going and eventually you will have a smooth dough ready to be made into noodles. When your sheet of dough is smooth to the touch (like the feeling of smooth leather), run it through the thinner rollers of your pasta machine until you reach the 3rd thinnest setting. Then pass it through the shaping rollers and twist the noodles into a nest. Keep your nests in an airtight container in a single layer.
  6. To cook the noodles place in a saucepan of boiling water for 45 seconds then drain – do this when the broth and chosen accompaniments are ready.
  7. To make the broth, add the vegetable stock and kombu to a saucepan and bring the boil, then remove the kombu, reduce to a simmer and add in the soy or oat milk.
  8. Add 1 tbsp of tahini, 1 tsp of fermented naked barley and 1 tsp of sesame oil to the bottom of each bowl. Pour 1 ladle of broth into each bowl and whisk to combine, then divide the remaining broth between the bowls equally followed by the cooked ramen noodles and chosen additions and toppers. Enjoy!
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