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Fried Beans, a Modern Take on Benes Yfryed

Home   Recipes for Pulses, Grains, Seeds, Flakes, Flour, Ferments...   Fried Beans, a Modern Take on Benes Yfryed
British Fava Fava Beans History Vegan Vegetarian

October 16, 2024

Pen Vogler includes this modern interpretation of the recipe Benes Yfryed from The Forme of Cury (c.1390), the first collection of recipes written in the English language, in her excellent book on British Food History, Stuffed: A Political History of What We Eat and Why it Matters - read the chapter on Beans.

Take benes and seeþ hem almost til þey bersten, take and wryng out þer water clene. Do þerto Oynouns ysode and ymynced, and garlec þerwith, frye hem in oile, oþer in grece, & do þerto powdour douce. & serve it forth - From The Forme of Cury (c.1390), rendered into modern English by Glyn Hughes (2016)

If you replace the Old English letter thorn or þ with the modern ‘th’, it’s quite possible to read the medieval English of this recipe. The food historian Glyn Hughes explains ‘ysode’ as ‘soft’ and that ‘powdour douce’, sweet spices, might have included aniseed, fennel, ground hyssop and sugar. Pen suggests using the more conventional (to us) coriander and cumin, both of which were used in medieval cooking and medicine.

Ingredients

  • 350g Dried Whole Fava Beans
  • 1 lg Onion, finely chopped
  • 2 to 3 Cloves of Garlic, minced
  • 1 tsp Ground Cumin
  • 1 tsp Ground Coriander
  • ½ tsp Fennel Seeds (optional)
  • Salt and Pepper
  • Olive or Sunflower Oil, for frying
  • (Optional) 1 Egg and about 40g of porridge oats or Breadcrumbs

Method

  1. Soak the beans overnight in at least three times their volume of water. They will absorb water and approximately double in size.
  2. Rinse well, cover with fresh water, add half a teaspoon of salt if desired. Simmer for 45–60 minutes until the beans are soft.
  3. Once cool enough to handle, pop the beans out of their skins (squeezing gently from the dark hilum or scar). You will have about 550–600g of beans. (Or use the same weight of cooked fresh or frozen ones.)
  4. Gently fry the onion and garlic in a little olive oil until soft but not coloured (putting a lid on the pan for the first 5–10 minutes will help them cook without browning too fast).
  5. Mash the beans with a potato masher or pulse in a mixer. Add the onion, spices, salt and pepper and taste for seasoning. Once you are happy with the taste, add an egg and porridge oats or breadcrumbs to help them hold together like burgers and chill them in the fridge for 15–20 minutes.
  6. Make them into 6–8 patties (wetting your hands will help). Fry them in 2 batches in a large frying pan on a medium to low heat.

Extracted from Stuffed: A Political History of What We Eat and Why It Matters by Pen Vogler, £10.99 RRP paperback

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