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Cooking pulses is fundamentally about getting water and heat into them so they're tender, digestible and delicious.
Pulses are dried seeds with a moisture content of around 14%. They dry naturally in the field as they mature in their pods to preserve them until conditions are right for germination and growth as a new plant. Grown by us as food this means they store well through a year or more after harvest. But whether they're to be grown or cooked and eaten, their moisture content needs to be brought back up to around 65%.
Heat breaks down the cell walls of the pulses so they're tender. Cooking at a high enough temperature also breaks down so called "antinutrients" like lectins (mostly a good thing despite their reputation*), phytic acid and complex carbohydrates that can be difficult to digest.
No. Split lentils in particular cook very readily without soaking, whole lentils and split peas and split beans can also very easily be cooked from dried. But soaking gives a head start on getting water into the pulses and will always speed up cooking, often cutting the cooking time by half. Soaking will also lower phytic acid levels, rinse off starches that can cause foaming during cooking and in the case of whole pulses, begin the process of activating the seed (by creating the conditions for germination) causing enzymes to be released which through their action make the pulses easier to digest..
To soak pulses, cover them with a generous amount of water and leave overnight or for at least 4 hours; Harold McGee advises that there's little benefit from longer soaking (and a very long soak can in fact make pulses harder to cook). We recommend at least 3 times the volume of water to pulses as they'll increase in volume by 2 to 3 times. As live seeds pulses can start to germinate during cold soaking but this is no bad thing.
Alternatively, you can "quick soak" pulses by covering them in water, bringing to a boil for 2 minutes then removing from the heat and leaving to stand covered for 1 hour.
Adding bicarbonate of soda (1 tsp / 5g per 500g pulses) during soaking is often recommended to help pusles cook more quickly and become softer and little bicarb tablets are often included in packets of dried marrowfat peas to speed the making of mushy peas. It’s certainly a helpful approach for older pulses or if soaking and cooking in hard water, but if not properly rinsed before cooking it can leave the pulses tasting soapy and feeling slippery
Bicarb works in two ways, firstly it increases the pH of the soaking water; the cell walls of the pulse break down more readily in alkaline conditions allowing water to penetrate more quickly. Secondly, it very readily gives up sodium ions which then replace calcium and magnesium ions in the cell walls of the pulse. This chemical transformation also means the seed is more permeable. But lots of other arguably more pleasant ingredients can do the same thing - for example salt in the soaking water will replace calcium ions.
Even better, seaweed (specifically kombu or kelp), contains a set of quite poorly understood enzymes, in particular alpha and beta-galactosidase which break down complex carbohydrates (principally raffinose) in the pulses making them easier to cook and to digest. Kombu will also slightly raise the pH of the soaking and cooking water, but not enough to give the pulses a slimy texture or soapy taste in the way the bicarb can. Unlike bicarb it can be left in the cooking water and even eaten with the pulses, it brings flavour and a significant nutritional bonus.
These days the cleaning of pulses is done to a very high standard, and employs some quite incredible technologies, but can never be perfect. Before cooking or soaking it’s worth picking over your pulses, especially smaller pulses like lentils. There may be occasional small stones or grits picked up during harvesting and missed even in thorough sieving and sorting because they’re of a similar size and weight to the pulse.. Picking over was once a standard part of cooking pulses and never goes amiss.
While ample water is often recommended for cooking pulses, Harold McGee advises that, unlike pasta or vegetables, less is more when it comes to the amount of water for boiling pulses. More water will cause more of the pulses' valuable protein and carbohydrate to leach out. This can mean that pulses take up more water when cooked in a smaller volume of water, as the carbohydrates otherwise lost can absorb up to 10 times their weight. So less water means more tender pulses. Just keep an eye on the pan and make sure it doesn't boil dry.
Pulses can be cooked in more than just water. A little salt (not too much), aromatic seasonings, stock and wine will all infuse the pulses with flavour as they cook and any residual cooking liquid (if not too salty) is a tasty resource not to be wasted and can be used to form the basis for whatever you’re planning to make with the pulses The only ingredients to avoid are those high in acid as they’ll slow cooking significantly - to the point where your pulses may never soften. Only add things like tomato, lemon juice or spinach when your pulses are as soft as you like.
Cooking with a strip of kelp / kombu helps soften the pulses and speeds cooking time, particularly useful if you’re using older pulses or have harder water (it’s the calcium ions in the hard water that cause the problems). Kelp also helps to break up the complex carbohydrates - collectively called raffinose, but including oligosaccharides, that can cause wind.
It's sometimes said that keeping the lid on while cooking will result in creamier pulses; this is simply the result of a more consistently high temperature. Keeping the lid on will cook pulses faster and more efficiently.
Put the pulses in a pan, add enough water to cover the pulses, plus a couple of centimetres above (not too much, as discussed above) and season generously - contrary to popular belief, salt is your friend when cooking pulses. Bring to the boil and turn down the heat to a simmer. Over boiling can burst the skins, resulting in mushy and unevenly cooked pulses. Keep an eye on the pan to ensure the pulses are always covered by liquid, adding more if required. The cooking time will vary depending on the size and age of the pulse as well as the hardness of the water and the altitude.
Place the pulses in a cast iron casserole dish, cover with a couple of centimetres water or stock, add any other ingredients and aromatics. Bring to a boil on the hob and simmer for 10 minutes, then cover and transfer to an oven at 180C for an hour or two until tender - or mushy for dal. Check the water occasionally and top up as required.
Cover the pulses with water and add other ingredients as above. Set the slow cooker to the low setting and let the pulses cook until tender, typically for 3 to 6 hours.
Important! If you are cooking kidney beans or other red or black beans, it is essential to boil them on the stove for 10 minutes before transferring them to the slow cooker (unless your slow cooker has a boil phase, which many modern models do). This step makes them more easily digestible and ensures safe consumption as the slow cooker on its own does not reach the temperature required to bring the lectins down to a safe level.
When using a pressure cooker to prepare pulses, simply place soaked or unsoaked pulses in the cooker with enough water to cover by about 4 centimeters (as you won't have the same flexibility of checking and topping up the liquid as with other methods). Add salt, your preferred aromatics, and a tablespoon of neutral oil to prevent foam from clogging the vent.
Be careful not to exceed the maximum fill line indicated for your specific pressure cooker, usually around the halfway mark. Set the pressure cooker to high-pressure mode and cook for 5 to 10 minutes for smaller pulses (lentils or split peas) or up to 35 to 40 minutes for larger pulses (chickpeas or whole beans). As always, soaked pulses will require less cooking time (and less water) than unsoaked.
To check your pulses are cooked, scoop out a couple, allow to cool for a moment and taste. They should be tender and cooked through with a texture appropriate to the dish you're using them in: holding their shape and with some bite for whole pulses stews or salads; soft and mushy for dips, dal, pease pudding or mushy peas.
You might find the skin of whole pulses wrinkles or peels when they are removed from the liquid. When crushed between your index finger and thumb they should have a creamy texture rather than a grainy feel. It’s always worth checking a couple of pulses to ensure that they are all adequately cooked. Adjust the seasoning if necessary.
Fear not! Overcooked pulses can always be used for dishes like refried beans, dips or dal. Only experience will give pulses cooked to the perfect consistency every time.
*An aside about lectins
Despite their off-putting name lectins and other anti-nutrients also bring important nutritional benefits. Their anti-nutritional effect is to inhibit the body's uptake of other nutrients but this is only problematic when they're present at high levels. Most pulses don't contain problematic levels of lectins but some do, particularly red and black varieties of beans; these should always be thoroughly cooked by boiling for at least 10 minutes to bring the lectin content down to a safe level. At lower levels lectins' slowing of digestion can help reduce blood sugar levels; they can also have antioxidant properties, protecting cells from damage by free radicals; ongoing research suggests that lectins may also stimulate gut cell growth and even inhibit cancer cells.
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Amy Oboussier
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